Tag Archives: history

Why You Should Care About That Grain Belt Sign

Grain Belt Sign
Image from Schell’s Twitter of the Grain Belt Sign

Grain Belt Lock and Dam

You’ve probably already heard that Schell’s has bought the iconic Grain Belt Beer sign that overlooks the Mississippi river in Minneapolis. They plan to restore and re-light the sign by 2017. And if you’ve heard that, then you’ve almost definitely heard that Schell’s is planning to brew a new beer to celebrate this acquisition – a copper lager by the name of Lock & Dam Lager under the Grain Belt brand. The promise of a new lager from a brewery putting out some of the best lagers in the state is definitely exciting news. Remember, Schell’s has taken home GABF medals for Firebrick and Oktoberfest. Even Grain Belt won silver in 2014 and gold in 1994. Despite all this, you might be wondering why we should be so excited about them planning to buy and restore an old beer sign. I mean, Grain Belt isn’t on most craft beer lovers top ten lists. And it is after all, just a rusty old sign.

A Rich History

Grain Belt Brewery
The Historic Minnesota Brewing Company Brewery

Grain Belt isn’t just another pale lager that just happens to be brewed in Minnesota. Much like the malted barley used to produce beer, Grain Belt is steeped in the history of Minnesota. To get to the origins of Grain Belt, we must look back to July of 1890, when four breweries joined together to create the Minneapolis Brewing and Malting Company. This name was later shortened to The Minneapolis Brewing Company. The new brewery this conglomerate constructed would be one of the largest producers of beer of its time. It eventually producing half a million barrels of beer every year. For reference, there is not a single brewery in Minnesota today producing that much – Schell’s comes closest at 131,000 barrels per year. This brewery still stands in Minneapolis to this day, and its unique style stands out. When it was built four different architectural styles were used to honor the four original breweries. It’s this that gives the brewery it’s “mismatched” style.

And the most popular beer of Minneapolis Brewing Company? The Golden Grain Belt Old Lager, whose name honored this part of the country. Minneapolis Brewing Company produced more beer than almost any other brewery in the state, bested only by the Theodore Hamm Brewing Company. Grain Belt was being sold as far away as Michigan, Illinois, and Nebraska. In today’s time of interstate trucks and international distribution this may not seem impressive, but for the time it was a rare achievement.

After prohibition ended Grain Belt returned strong and became one of the most popular beers in the country. But by the 1950s sales had faltered and in 1975 the brand was bought and quickly sold to the G. Heileman Brewing Company in La Crosse, Wisconsin. This would take Grain Belt out of Minnesota, at least temporarily. This would be the last time the Grain Belt Beer sign lit up the Mississippi River.

A Bright Future for Grain Belt

grainbeltnewlabel
Schell’s Grain Belt

In 2001 Schell’s purchased the brand, returning it to Minnesota and restoring its popularity. It has again become one of the most popular brands of the Midwest, and in 2010 released a new beer, Nordeast, in honor of Northeast Minneapolis. By restoring that old sign Schell’s is restoring an integral part of craft beer – and Minnesota – history.

Every brewery in Minnesota today owes a nod to the Minneapolis Brewing Company and Grain Belt, who were pioneers in Minnesota beer. And yes, in the end, we are just talking about a sign. Nonetheless, I look forward to seeing its light reflecting on the Mississippi again, a symbol of not just Minnesota’s rich history, but the exploding beer culture in our state.

Head to Schell’s website or Twitter for more updates.

All Tied up in Blue (Laws)

In 2011, it had been over 90 years since anyone could buy a pint directly from a Minnesota brewery due to Minnesota’s new taproom law this was about to change.  When discussing Minnesota’s taproom law, most people assume the law just overturned outdated blue laws remnant from the Prohibition Era.  However, the legislation dealing with the taproom law was not technically a blue law since it was not designed to restrict access to alcohol on certain days but to reduce corruption in alcohol distribution.  These laws instituted various versions, depending on the state, of what would be called the three tier system.  The three tier system had two distinct purposes; one was to eliminate organized crime from the alcohol industry and the other was to end the pre-prohibition system of tied houses.

One may ask, what is a tied house and where did the idea come from?  The tied house system originated in Great Britain’s brewing industry as a form of vertical integration where the pub was owned by the brewery.  This system was abolished recently (in the 1990s) in the UK as to foster competition.  The problem for British beer lovers (like the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA)) was that the pubs did not become independently owned but entered a different tied house system.  Instead of the brewery controlling the pub, the pubs were purchased and controlled by giant “pubcos” (think Applebees.)  CAMRA claims that the abolishment of the old tied house system not only led to the closure of local pubs but lowered the quality of the available ales.

What does this have to do with beer on the American side of the Atlantic?  The United States had its own short lived experience with the tied house system.  From the 1840s through the end of the nineteenth century the United States experienced its first beer renaissance with a large influx in immigration of German, Czech, and Scandinavian people.  They brought with them beer culture and a lighter style of beer called lager.  Many of these recent immigrants enjoyed a culture of social beer drinking.  German immigrants in particular enjoyed socializing in large beer halls or gardens with their entire families.  The most common day for this activity was Sunday when most working class people enjoyed a day off.  Many initial Blue laws were designed to restrict the influence of immigrant culture by outlawing alcohol sales on Sundays.  Many recent immigrants saw this not only as an attack on their culture but as a design to curb their political will by preventing them from publicly gathering.    This coincided with the birth of the “dry” or Temperance Movement.

The temperance movement would first attempt to enact total prohibition at the state level with acts like the Maine Law of 1851.  These ideas did not find much traction in the large German immigrant populations of Milwaukee and Chicago and would eventually fail.  In Chicago, these forces would come to physical blows in the “Lager Beer Riots” when the Illinois Sunday Closure Law was enforced by Chicago’s new mayor Levi Boone in 1955.  Ultimately, 31 saloon owners refused to be closed on Sunday and were promptly arrested.  The civil unrest would eventually lead to these laws being reversed.  Their failures fresh in their minds, temperance advocates devised a new strategy.

Their new strategy was to raise the licensing fee to levels that saloon owners could not afford.  The new fees ranged from as low as $50 to over $500 in some areas.  In order to save the retail establishments marketing their products, the breweries would step in with low interest loans or even direct ownership.  The temperance movement viewed this adjustment as an acceptable change.

Beer, primarily due to its lower alcohol content, had long been viewed as a temperance beverage.  With direct brewery involvement, it was assumed that beer would be exclusively served and the large companies would not tolerate vice, as in gambling or prostitution, in their establishments.  Early on this was the case.  For example, the Schlitz Palm Garden, built in 1896, was a 4,500 square foot Victorian inspired beer garden that served food, held orchestra concerts, displayed works of art, and feature a park for family picnics.

The growth of the brewing industry in the late 1800s created an increasingly competitive environment leading to an era known as the “Beer Wars.”  During the Beer Wars the large breweries (e.g.Schlitz, Pabst, Busch, and so on) would cut their prices in half to drive out any competition.  During this highly competitive time, many saloon keepers were also faced with increased pressure to obtain greater profits and more revenue.  Faced with the increasing pressure, some unscrupulous saloon keepers turned a blind eye to gambling, prostitution, and other forms of vice in return for kickbacks.

Interestingly prior to the 1900s the Minneapolis city attorney D. F. Simpson and the wealthy Pillsbury family launched the Minneapolis Plan of 1884.  The goal of the plan was to curb the political influence of saloons by confining them to business districts, thus eliminating the neighborhood saloon.  When compared to other major American cities in the height of the era, the Twin Cities had one of the highest concentrations of tied houses.  In 1908 only 38 of 432 saloons in Minneapolis were independently owned.  For example, the Minneapolis Brewing Company had 131 saloons.

There were benefits to this system.  First, many breweries spent lavishly on the construction of their tied houses.  For instance, today Ward 6 in St. Paul is an example of a restored Hamm’s tied house.  There are also many great examples of the most prolific tied house brewer, Schlitz, in Chicago.  Slowly but surely the social problems associated with saloons were laid at the feet of the breweries giving the temperance movement firm footing to attack them.  A marketing strategy giving free lunch to saloon patrons was often a focus for criticism as it seemed to promote daytime drinking.  The marketing strategy put many industries in the pocket of the temperance movement because they saw daytime drinking as an attack on the productivity of their workers.

The tied house system was effectively ended in the United States with the passage of the Volstead Act in 1919.  The laws repealing national prohibition resulted in the creation of state by state legislation and enforcement of a three tiered system of breweries, wholesalers, and retailers.  The three tiered system prevents breweries from having a direct connection with the retail sales of their products.  The idea was to prevent what was viewed as the monopolization of the brewing industry and increase tax revenue from breweries.  One of the main drawbacks to this system was that it raised barriers for small producers to enter the market.  The Taproom Law of 2011 only created a loophole in this system by allowing producers to sell their products on location.

Hopefully, with some background on the tied house system, we can now really appreciate how great it is to once again raise a pint at the brewery where the beer was born.  Cheers!

Time Warp….Again

Been watching HBO on Sunday nights lately? Curious about how Steve Buscemi was able to run an empire from the boardwalk in Atlantic City? Now is your chance to enjoy an in person experience with America’s most fascinating and misguided era, Prohibition. Minnesota residents should be especially aware of this lapse in judgment as it was a congressman from district 7 of our state, Andrew Volstead that authored this law. From November 9th to March 16th the Minnesota Historical Society is giving us the chance during our longest season, winter, to warm our spirits with, well, spirits. Starting today the History Center will be featuring American Spirits: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition presented by the National Constitution Center.

The exhibit kicks off tonight with the Bootlegger’s Ball when the History Center will hop in a Delorian and set the dial back 90 years to take us back to what it describes as a “swanky speakeasy”. The event will feature great ways to experience the era which ironically include legal alcohol. Appropriately Schells, the only remaining Minnesota brewery to survive Prohibition will be sampling beers, along with Summit and Lucid. Rae Katherine Eighmey (author of “Soda Shop Salvation”) and Nick Kosevich of Bittercube Bitters will be there to educate on and serve some great cocktails because the mixed drink was born in Prohibition to cover that flavor of questionably distilled booze. There will be live Dixieland jazz featuring the Southside Aces and period dance lessons so everyone can swing in style. Last but not least this is the first opportunity to wander through this exhibit with the right level of sobriety or more accurately, a lack thereof.

Andrew VolsteadOver the course of the next few months the History Center will be featuring different events highlighting some of the impacts of results of the Prohibition Era. One of these events that I will definitely been attending is the Speakeasy Saturdays reflecting the revival of local brewing and distilling. This event will feature Summit Brewing, Great Waters Brewing, and Dashfire Bitters on Saturdays from December through February. Other events during this exhibit will include a musical performance called A Toast to Prohibition: Songs of Temperance and Temptation, an ongoing series called History Lounge featuring discussions with historians, and Bootleg Valentine: Dining, dancing, and romancing in Prohibition Era Twin Cities.

All of this seems as if we have turned a blind eye to the existing remnants of Prohibition that exist in Minnesota to deny us rights to beer that other states enjoy. This is not true. Rather this exhibit should provide all of us with the opportunity to see that denying us our beer or liquor will move that potential revenue to the wrong place, not just Wisconsin. This exhibit should show us not just the rise of jazz and the cocktail, but also organized crime and the blatant destruction of an industry supporting thousands of jobs that we are beginning to recover. So, for the next few months let’s all bring out our inner historian and do the time warp again to keep Prohibition history.

American Spirits: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition
Minnesota History Center
ON VIEW NOV 9, 2013 – MARCH 16, 2014

Unintended Consequences: The Maine Law and Lager

As the Minnesota legislature contemplates a massive tax increase on brewers and distillers we may be reminded of a time in the 1920’s when state and federal governments decided to punish beer drinkers for the supposed good of everyone. The Prohibition era of the 20th century was not the first instance of this in American or Minnesota history. To find the true roots of this misguided movement we must travel back to Portland, Maine in the 1840’s. It was in this city that temperance and prohibition took their first breaths.

In 1827 Neal Dow became a founding member of the Maine Temperance Society. Most temperance advocates tried to convince people of the danger of drink but Dow believed that the only way to eliminate alcohol was by legislation. He used his influence to attempt prohibition in Maine several times before being elected mayor of Portland in April 1851. In that same year he succeeded in shepherding the first prohibition law in the nation through Maine’s legislature. With the “Maine” law in effect it would spread like a virus through the northern states. Minnesota would pass its own version of the Maine law in 1852.

Early prohibition would meet its nemesis in the German beer cultures of Milwaukee and St. Louis. German immigrants and their descendants viewed prohibition as an attack on the very lifeblood of their culture. Unlike the Northeastern Yankees, who drank heavier British style ales or rum, Germans preferred the lager beer of their homeland. Lager was considerably lighter and lower in alcohol than ale and many Germans enjoyed it in community beer gardens or other social events. As Midwesterners this should not be an altogether unfamiliar situation for most of us. In that culture beer was not viewed as an intoxicant but an everyday beverage to relax, enjoy, and be sociable.

The reaction in Milwaukee and St. Louis to prohibition should not have come as a great surprise to the temperance advocates in those states. The vehemence in the rejection of temperance came in the form of riots and mass protests at state capitols. A prohibition act did reach the Governor’s desk in Wisconsin in 1853 but was promptly vetoed. In St. Louis there was another idea entirely. There German-Americans would go to court to prove that lager beer was not an intoxicating beverage. In one story, a portly German man volunteered his time to sit in front of jurors and consume 22 beers to prove that he could not become drunk from beer.

While the Maine laws stalled in Wisconsin and Missouri they came under attack in the state where they were born. On June 2, 1855 Portland residents rioted after hearing a rumor the Neal Dow himself had sold alcohol for medicinal purposes to the state. When the rioter reached his steps he ordered the state militia to fire killing one and injuring several. This incident was repeated across other dry states. In 1856 Maine repealed Prohibition which led to repeal in several other states as crusaders focused on a different cause, abolition.

This first attempt at Prohibition taught American several lessons one being that denying people a popular product caused more problems than it solved. Minnesota would change its law because it had not counted on the reduced revenue from the lack of liquor and beer taxes. An unintended consequence of Maine laws was the popularity of lager beer. The publicity from the protests by German-Americans would lead many to try this new lager beer. Since then lager beer has become the most popular style of beer in America for more than 150 years. So go out and find a locally brewed lager or pilsner and salute our ancestors for holding off Prohibition for 80 years by teaching America how to drink beer again.