All posts by Paige L.

Paige runs AlcoholbyVoluMN, a blog to document her forays into the world of beer, including: craft beer / up-and-coming breweries / beer history and anthropology / the applied science of food pairings / destination breweries and other beer adventures. You can tweet page at AlcoholbyVoluMN.

Growler storage becoming annoying? We hear you.

This article orginally appeared at alcohol by volume on by


Canal Park growlerHow many growlers do you own? Empty ones, I mean, gathering dust and taking up a sad amount of space in your cellar or kitchen? I own about ten, and I have even given some away for silent auctions, or to close friends headed up north, in a take-a-penny, leave-a-penny sort of exchange. I have more growlers than I know what to do with, and I am willing to bet that many of my Minnesotan readers do, too.

My friend Ian Campbell recently posed a question to me, a clear result of this major pet peeve.

“Why won’t our local breweries fill growlers that aren’t their own?” He went on to describe brining Minnesota growlers to sates like Colorado with no questions asked and an easy, cheap fill. Some breweries are quite vocal about this practice, too, such as Wisconsin’s Rush River who claim to fill milk jugs if asked.

Dissent growlers

“But in Minnesota, where we supposedly have this exciting beer scene where all the breweries see themselves as a ‘community’ instead of competitors, I have yet to hear of a single brewery that will fill a growler other than their own.”

It is a great question, and a timely one, too.

Excelsior GrowlerRecent lesiglation pushed through by House Rep Mark Anderson with advisement from Minnesota Beer Activists’ Andrew Schmitt served to clarify vague language about growlers, making it clear to Minnesota breweries that growler-sharing is completely legal. But in fact, it was never illegal: “Growler refilling has always been legal as long as you follow the state and fed requirements,” Andrew explains. “Of course, special interests try to make it as hard as possible. Labels, seals, etc. One of the reasons [House Representative Mark Anderson’s] bill was written was to clarify the regulations. Brewers were being told they could be accused of bottle/label tampering if they filled other’s growlers.”

Other misconceptions exist, too, such as the perception that refilling the bottles is against health code, or that it remains illegal in another roundabout way.

“I would think this would be a no-brainer for breweries…it would increase the amount of beer they can sell, and money they can make, and expand access to their product if they would just fill whatever vessel they were handed. And by law, they can. They simply choose not to. Which just feels like one more arbitrary roadblock in a distribution system already filled with plenty of arbitrary roadblocks to good beer.” Ian is not alone in this thinking, to be sure, but breweries have delineated a multitude of reasons for not filling other breweries’ proprietary growlers.

Freehouse growlers

Ian hit the streets (well, mostly the phone and interwebs) to do a bit of research. While not a comprehensive list, I’m very impressed with the amount of information he unearthed.

Northbound Brewpub was the first phone call. “No” was the immediate answer to our sharing question, citing the issue of brand recognition and quality, an understandable roadblock. “We want all our beer coming out of growlers with our name on it.” Third Street Brewhouse had a similar response.

The brand-new LynLake is not yet filling growlers due to taproom demand and volume. Justin explained that growler fills will begin in a “couple months”, but they plan to pre-fill using proprietary vessels because “it’s easier for us, and it’d be difficult trying to take the growler being traded in and get it back to brewery where it’s from.” Dangerous Man follows the same model, pre-filling all growlers in advance. Hilari also told Ian that cleanliness would be a concern, as did a representative of Town Hall.

On the St. Paul end of things, Tin Whiskers cited “health code issues” for their being against the practice, but indicated this may change in the future. On the other hand, Urban Growler described the practice of “pre-filling them fresh from the fermenter” in hopes that the beer stays fresher longer, and out of convenience. Similarly, Steel Toe fills their growlers on a counterpressure bottling line, according to Brandon, which keeps the beer from getting oxidized too quickly. They indicated considering stainless steel growler fills in the future.

Cambridge growlers

Heading north, Bent Paddle cited not having stickers with compliant labeling. No word on whether this will change. Fitger’s is another no, but in an interesting twist, they are willing to take the growler you have and credit you the deposit. I appreciate that! Interestingly, Lake Superior feels uncomfortable with the law despite Representative Mark Anderson’s clarification. Dan explained that they are “waiting for clarity on the finer points”. However, they do support the practice and are themselves annoyed by obligatory growler-collecting.

In greater Minnesota it’s generally a no-go. This is especially vexatious considering these are the growlers from that road trip that won’t be re-used for years, if ever. Bemidji Brewing Co uses the bottling line for filling, and Jack Pine Brewery of Baxter is uneasy with the law, despite telling MNBA they support sharing. Brau Brothers was another to cite sanitation of the container and the desire to have their logo displyed. Ely’s Boathouse Brewpub, on the other hand, is eagerly awaiting stickers compliant with Minnesota law.

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Despite these ligitimate concerns, a handful of Minnesota breweries support or even encourage growler-sharing.

Harriet Brewing will enthusiastically fill any clean growler. Indeed Brewing agrees, with a huge emphasis on clean, explains Tom, laughing. “We have EXACTING standards for cleanliness!” Fair State would love to fill your clean growler or clean it for you, for a fee.  It must be a “classic” growler; they cannot fill any other type of container because they have only been approved to sell that type. Fair State was the only brewery we spoke with to make this distinction.

Evidently, brewery owners don’t think we know how to do dishes! Of course, I’m kidding, but cleanliness and brand recognition were the most commonly cited issues, even from breweries who take ‘em and fill ‘em from all sides. And of course consumers can appreciate this point. What happens when a nucleation site at the bottom of the container sends Town Hall beer out of a Dangerous Man growler like a geyser? Everyone ends up wet and confused.

At the same time, the convenience factor and potential for less environmental impact cause most drinkers to highly favor sharing. Consumers who purchase growlers care about the product and they want fresh beer. Forcing visitors to purchase and store growlers simply makes potential customers less willing to do so.

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The fine print of common growler use, legally speaking, requires proper labeling. Additionally, the growler must be filled at the time of sale, otherwise it is considered bottling, which explains some of the roadblocks cited during our informal poll. Perhaps this requirement is also a hurdle for some busy establishments that feel unable to keep up in real time. “A brewer may, but is not required to, refill any growler with malt liquor for off-sale at the request of a customer. A brewer refilling a growler must do so at its licensed premises and the growler must be filled at the tap at the time of sale.” Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (abrreviated TTB).

In short, any brewery could slap on a sticker wth the required information: Brewer name or trade name / Place of production – the place of production is the city, and, if necessary for identification, the state / Net contents – show net contents as ½ gallon. You may use “64 ounces” in addition to but not in place of “½ gallon.” / Government warning label. (paraphrased from TTB)

There are huge advantages for breweries that share growlers, the primary one being cost, not to mention consumer satisfaction. Growlers are often in short supply, and many breweries have run out from time to time. This is precisely why Fair State recently encouraged customers to tote their own glassware.

Yet, the barriers remain, so much so that despite the legal status of the practice, it is unlikely that my growler collection will shrink anytime soon.

Huge thanks to Ian Campbell for his great question and dilligent research. Thank you to Andrew Schmitt (well for many things, but especially) for the great background info and resources. And thanks to the local breweries for their willingness to enlighten us on the issue. Keep up the great work!

Further Reading: Federal Regulations / State Statutes / MN Beer Activists work with Rep Anderson

Indeed Brewing Mexican Honey Imperial Lager

The Indeed Brewing Mexican Honey Imperial Lager is in a league of its own, especially among other summer beers. While honey lager conjures images of straw-colored beer in a clear bottle with or without a lime sticking out, imperial leads to thoughts of viscous, motor-oil like substances. Somewhere in the middle, and containing elements of each, is this unique flavor bomb.

Indeed Brewing Mexican Honey Imperial LagerWith aggressive honey character from start to finish and just enough alcoholic heat to get its point across, the Indeed Brewing Mexican Honey Imperial Lager will probably take you by surprise.

First, the Mexican orange blossom honey doesn’t add much sweetness. In fact, this beer is very dry and even mildly bitter in the finish. The dry finish allows the honey to come through, in contrast to one of Indeed’s other honey beers, the LSD, in which which the honey simply reads as “sweet”.

Furthermore, the orange on the nose is accompanied by a pleasant fruity-grape note and the malt delivers a graham cracker element — a very intriguing combination.

Mark Joseph, off-premise account manager, explains that the beer would age very well. “We just tried one that was a year old, the honey still came through. It was great.” With that, he took me back to the barrel room, where the Mexican Honey Imperial Lager is sitting in Don Julio Anejo tequila barrels. The aging brew will become Mexican Cousin in early 2015.

Worth the wait? I have no doubt. But for now try the Mexican Honey, available at the taproom and in bottles next week.

Indeed Brewing Barrel Room
Mexican Cousin waiting to be born in the Indeed Brewing Barrel Room

Freehouse changes the game

When I heard that the Blue Plate Restaurant Group was planning to open a brewpub, I thought, “well that only makes sense.” After all, they have been behind the craft beer movement since the beginning of their now 8-deep restaurant group. I can remember drinking my first Third Street beer at Edina Grill, a place my family has frequented for years.

But when I heard that they were opening it in the North Loop I knew I had to visit as soon as possible.

The neighborhood gets a lot of love, a lot of press, and a lot of cookie-cutter historic loft to condo conversions. Despite the fine dining, there may not be another pocket of Minneapolis where the dining is so stratified with a gaping hole in the middle – on one level is Cuzzy’s, Club Jager, and The Loop and on another is Borough, Smack Shack, Bachelor Farmer, and Bar La Grassa.

Enter Freehouse, a brewpub of industrial-meets-pragmatic design located on Washington Avenue, to bridge the dining gap. Originally dubbed the “Loose-Wiles Freehouse”, a throwback to the historic building, there is more to this place than first meets the eye, especially if you’re there when your eyes can’t see the floor.

My first visit was one such Friday at 8:30pm and I could not believe the sheer number of people crammed into the bar seating. I was worried but couldn’t bring myself to go elsewhere. I ordered one house beer – the brown ale, found a bare patch of wall, and waited for a friend.

Despite the hustle, table service was surprisingly prompt and the noise level was tolerable.

On that first visit I was very intrigued by the entire concept and made plans to chat with the brewer, Pio. I was pleased to sit down with him in front of a rainbow of taps to toast the new digs and learn more.

You may think otherwise by looking at him, but head brewer Pio (Tim Piotrowski) has extensive and serious brewing experience, experience that he didn’t imagine would land him in a brewpub. After studying with the American Brewer’s Guild in Colorado, Pio completed an internship at the legendary Oscar Blues. He had a number of brewpub gigs after that, including Walnut Brewery in Boulder, ChopHouse in Denver, and Rock Bottom in Westminster.

He became a Minnesotan after being offered the Head Brewer position at the downtown Minneapolis Rock Bottom and from there was recruited from a large pool to head up Freehouse’s operation.

“I basically presented a portfolio, what I would brew, my ideas,” he explains. “I had to go through several interviews”. His portfolio and brewpub experience impressed Blue Plate.

Hurdles immediately followed for the brewing at Freehouse, including the government shut down which resulted in fewer beers being available on opening day. Through the kindness, advice, and capacity of other Twin Cities’ breweries, only the smallest of wrenches actually impeded the planned beer selection.

The delayed opening occurred on December 16th with three house beers on draft. The current line-up consists of a Kolsch-style beer, an IPA, a brown ale, and a stout.

I asked Pio whether working for a restaurant group with such a defined image and expectations makes him feel constrained as a brewer. He explained that the major limitation in brewing is the brewpub setting itself. “All of my beer has to be sold over this bar,” he gestures. “In a brewery you often have flexibility of distribution to add to sales.”

That really made me stop and think.

“Does that explain why the beers are so safe?” I asked.

Pio sort of shrug-nods, but says he sees it another way. “Every person who comes in here will be able to find a [house] beer that they will enjoy.” He is an advocate of beers that are approachable to non-beer-drinkers. The Kolsch-style beer appeals to a broad spectrum of individuals and acts as the gateway beer for macro drinkers. At the same time, at – I feel the need to say “only” – 55 IBUs the IPA will appeal to more drinkers than just hop lovers. It is an IPA that falls in the middle of style guideline rather than pushing the IBU frontier, Pio points out.

As a non-hopophile, the IPA was very good, with ideal body and a clean finish. It especially shined when paired with chef Breck Lawrence’s Grilled Chix sandwich

But he understands the demand for exceedingly hoppy beers in this market. He has his fingers on the pulse of American tastes and added a rotating IPA in addition to their “#2 IPA” the day after I met with him. The first in the rotation is a single hop El Dorado IPA at 7.3% and about 70 IBUs. It is available now.

The next rotating line will be a wheat beer, and while it is one of Pio’s favorite beers, that is not why he is adding it. “I don’t brew for myself. I brew for what my guests like to drink.” An important idea, especially in the brewpub setting.

Finally, I asked if Freehouse will ever have what I call a “Black Friday Beer” – a limited release beer that forces people to wait in line for hours or trample each other as if for a deal on a TV. Pio laughs and says that it is possible but probably won’t be soon. Eventually a beer may be made using Four Roses Bourbon barrels, a spirit that Blue Plate frequently features.

I sampled the house beers and it was obvious that improvements have already been made. The Kolsch tasted much more Kolsch-y than during my first visit, which Pio confirmed to be the result of refining both equipment and process. I still find the brown to be somewhat boring, but learned it is a favorite of at least two bartenders, so maybe it is more about personal taste in this case.

Beer nerds who take note of IBUs or SRM and use Untappd habitually are not the target market for the Blue Plate addition. They may not find something mind-blowing among the Freehouse beers, and that is okay.

Proof of the success of Freehouse is in the numbers, which Pio showed me. In the first two weeks of operation, “well above” 90% of beer sold was house beer. Additionally, 3,300 pints of IPA alone were served, and that does not include the other two sizes of pours they offer.

For those wanting to impress friends, take note that the entire space (which was designed very intentionally) is built on three levels. The bottom, where the bustling bar is located, is also where the mash and lauter are within the brewing space. Moving up one level is dining and fermenting – a slower, more docile process. The third level is the private dining room which showcases beer packaging items, beer art, and the kitchen, where food is expedited into the rest of the house.

The implications of such a large group of restaurants brewing its own beer is yet to be determined. Rock Bottom and Granite City are not appropriate comparisons as they are national chains. One thing is for sure, the beer from Freehouse will most certainly be distributed to all other Blue Plate spots, but Pio is adamant that the rest of the beer selection will still remain intact. “We aren’t looking to eliminate variety,” he says emphatically.

Thank you to Freehouse, to Travis Waltz and Drew Avery, and most of all to Pio for his time, knowledge and for letting me be a voyeur. I’ll see you all soon.

The Art of Judging Beer

I was leaving my house, notebook in hand, to go to the Minnesota State Fair to judge beer when I said to my friend and temporary roommate, “Well, I’m off to do what I do best: be judgmental.”

“No,” he responded, “you just have a gift for discernment.” What a good friend.

State Fair Beer areaI signed up for beer discernment at the Minnesota State Fair for the very first time because more experienced brewers had told me that it is a valuable experience for developing beer tasting skills. It was pretty simple, one Google search, several pages of questions, and I was in.

The judging is organized by the Primary Fermenters, a homebrew club out of the Twin Cities that has been in operation since 2008. Many of their members are ranked through the Beer Judging Certification Program (BJCP), but they provide both highly BJCP-qualified as well as novice beer judges for many competitions around Minnesota. People who have been homebrewing since before it was cool, Grand Master BJCP judges, and beer aficionados gather to thoughtfully criticize, praise, and appreciate the beers submitted to the Minnesota State Fair. And each year there are novices like me that somehow survive the process.

This year, over 750 beer submissions were made, narrowed to about 740 based on rules such as Minnesota residency.

PF glass

I signed up for two sessions on Saturday, but my first encounter with my fellow judges took place at Pour Decisions on Friday. Primary Fermenters hosted a little party for us there with free barbecue and homebrew. I ran into two friends who had just come from their first time judging. They had a positive experience, but I was getting nervous just from their advice.

“You will get paired with a master judge,” and “make sure you touch on each point,” said one friend. “Remember, a score in the 30’s out of 50 is a good score.” Then came, “don’t forget to talk about every portion in your summary.” My head was spinning. I drank another beer.

WP_20130817_021Driving a car through the State Fair feels a bit surreal, as does being there when it’s quiet and the bathrooms are clean. Approaching the Horticulture building, I tried to forget about my nerves and focus on learning about judging and having fun. The very mixed crowd was mingling in anticipation but the vibe was pretty mellow.

I found my spot and looked over the provided mechanical pencils as though it was the morning of the ACT. The coffee and donut were helping me to relax. I found my name: my assignment was category 13 – Stouts, and my partner was Christopher Smith.

Judging Materials

As the six of us gradually filled our table, I introduced myself and confessed that it was my first time judging. There were three of us who were non-BJCP plus three highly qualified, acclaimed judges. Our steward (like a very helpful host and facilitator) Tim was also fun and helpful. I considered myself lucky to be learning from all of them.

Table of judges

Judging station

My partner Chris, a Master BJCP, has been judging beer since 2005. To my left was Steve Platz, the man who has judged more beer than anyone else in the entire state, a Grand Master BJCP. His partner Tony Ebertz was on the newer side like me, judging for the third time.

They told me how the process works: First you assess the beer for what it is. You make specific statements about what is or isn’t present. You speak to the general experience of the brew. Finally you score it, and here is where you take into account the style and determine whether it is or isn’t what the brewer intended or the guideline states it should be.

I was following along just fine, and grateful to see the table was littered with BJCP style guidelines as most of my knowledge of stouts was feeling hard to retrieve at that moment.

The scoresheets include a judge’s email and full name; competitors are free to contact judges after they receive their scores.

Chris told me about assessing the bottle, pouring (into the center of the cup with no tipping!) and walked me through the categories. aroma, appearance, flavor, mouthfeel, and overall impression.

It was time to do this thing.

WP_20130817_016I began appraising and scoring our first beer. While Chris expertly jotted down notes and appraisals, I was just focused on honing a sensitive palate and recalling vocabulary. He had completed nearly every section and I was in no way keeping up. He was very patient, though, and we discussed our findings at the end. The beer was better than mediocre and we had both given similar scores in the low 30s. Some of our notes and comments were similar, too. My confidence began to set in and I even said out loud at one point, “so I’m NOT crazy!” I was quite proud that our scores remained similar throughout the round.

Bottles Judging

Several great beers came across our table. We tried dry stouts, sweet stouts, oatmeal stouts, foreign extra stouts, and Russian Imperial stouts. Chris and I sent one sweet stout and one foreign extra on to the next round to be considered for best in show by the three experts at my table.

One of the most intriguing parts of the day was listening to the Masters and Grand Master debate about the merits of each of the beers presented at the finals table. Lunch was provided, so I grabbed a bagel and sat next to them. At one point, Steve said, “it’s oaky like oak sawdust, not like oak barrels.”

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Facetiously, I said “oh, right.” He went on to explain that oak barrels are charred, creating a different taste.

It was this kind of knowledge sharing that was the best part about my day of judging.

My second session was spent on porters – brown porters, robust porters, and Baltic porters. I felt slightly more confident, but when my partner didn’t show I started to panic. I was finally paired with someone else. What if I couldn’t perform in this category the way that I just had?

Judging cheers

To my relief, while it started a bit rocky with slightly more disparate scores, my partner Trevor and I hit our stride and even tasted one excellent robust porter that we both agreed we would pay for.

I thanked everyone several times, and was genuinely humbled and grateful for the experience from start to finish. I felt enlightened, challenged, and supported simultaneously and I would definitely do it again.

If this experience sounds interesting and fun to you, I encourage you to try it. There is no better way to enhance your palate and sharpen your skills than to drink with people more talented than you.

For me, this was the right time to try this, as I have been critically drinking beer for about a year. I felt that I had some of the basic vocabulary and a gift of discernment, as some have called it.

Special thanks to Primary Fermenters, Christopher Smith, Steve Platz, and Tony Ebertz, Tim and Trevor. Thanks to MN Beer Activists for encouraging this experience.