All posts by Derek

Derek Allmendinger is a professional brewer and amateur writer. You can usually find him running around one of the Cities’ lakes or bellying up to one of its beer bars.
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Enki Brewing – Victoria, Minnesota

By Derek Allmendinger
Photos by Andrew Schmitt

This summer I went on a road trip to beautiful Victoria, Minnesota. I didn’t realize just how neat this little town was until I visited. I always knew where Victoria was but never made a point to visit. It was a speed bump, not a destination. It was on the way to places like Waconia and other western towns. I’d been to Floyds for bands before but never ventured far off Highway 5. This trip made me wish I had.

The People

I showed up just as Brewers Supply Group was delivering, well, brewing supplies. I thought to myself, perfect timing, Derek. However, co-owner Dan Norton and brewer Jason Davis were more than happy to put the heavy lifting on hold to talk beer with me. I walked in through the brewhouse to the taproom where we sat down. Instantly I noticed the contrasting beauty of the shiny stainless steel with the nearly one hundred year old architecture. As we sat in the taproom, we discussed Jason’s brewing history, how the co-owners partnered up and what direction the brewery is heading.
Enki Brewing
Owners Dan Norton and John Hayes met while working together thirty years ago. They met while working for shoe giant Nike and although their career paths have taken them in separate directions, they have remained friends with a mutual interest in good beer ever since. I’ve read that although Enki is an anagram for Nike, it has nothing to do with the name of the brewery. You see, Enki is the Sumerian god of running water. Most historians will tell you that beer was invented – or discovered rather – in ancient Sumeria. Also, Enki’s daughter Ninkasi was the goddess of beer.

Jason’s  brewing history goes back to the mid 90’s. He was waiting tables at the Sioux Falls Brewing Company, a small brewpub located in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Before long he was in the brewhouse learning the craft of brewing. Eventually Jason took over the reigns as head brewer and was making some pretty good beers – he won 4 medals at the GABF during his tenure there. And I can vouch for his beers. Coincidentally, I was going to college in Sioux Falls at the time and remember quite fondly the Buffalo Stout, Ring Neck Red (South Dakota is the pheasant hunting capital of the world) and Phillips Ave Pale Ale. This was definitely one of my earliest memories of craft beer and it made a lasting and positive impression. Thank you, Jason! Sadly due to law changes in South Dakota as well as an obnoxious tenant in the same building the brew pub was forced to close. Shortly thereafter Jason packed up his family and moved to Minneapolis. He spent a few years working for Midwest Supplies in Saint Louis Park which is where he met John.

Originally, Jason started helping Dan and John in the planning stage as a consultant. Dan joked that a consultant is “someone who borrows your watch and then tells you what time it is”. It wasn’t long before Jason was invited to join the team on a full time basis. In early June they brewed their first beer, Citric Journey, and on June 22nd they opened the tap room. The only beer on tap opening day was Citric Journey and it was very well received.  Their goal was never to open with a huge variety of beers on tap but rather to brew one beer at a time and brew it well. Then introduce another one… and another…

If you were at Autumn Brew Review last weekend perhaps you met Enki’s Instigator of Camaraderie, Karie McDougall. She rounds out the team as the head of sales, marketing, special events as well as making sure your visit to the taproom is exciting and memorable. Industry folks, you’ll want to get to know Karie as she is your connection to delicious Enki beer! Karie is no newbie to the business. She’s spent the last six years working around craft beer. Initially with JJ Taylor’s craft beer distribution team and then with New Belgium Brewery promoting their brands. Look for her fun and charismatic personality at special events and when you visit the taproom.

The Beer

The first beer I tried was their debut ale Citric Journey. A hoppy balanced Pale Ale booming with flavor. The name comes from the citrus notes the hops impart combined with malted barley coming from both North America and Europe. Even the beer itself takes you on a journey. There’s a subtle welcoming of malt on the nose followed by some pretty intense hop flavors. It finishes nicely with an array of complex malt sweetness. But not too sweet, there is a wave of bitterness tickling the tongue. Definitely worth a try.
Enki Brewing Kegs
The second beer I tried was their sophomore offering, Auburn Kolsch. Auburn – Kolsch, that’s an oxymoron right? As Jason explains, this beer was brewed as a red ale but fermented and hopped like a Kolsch. My eyes definitely played tricks on my mouth. What I was expecting out of that glass was not what hit my tongue. It was delicately hopped with some floral notes and fruity esters. But there was also a soft malt presence. It was very good. As a stylistic thinker and trained beer judge this one confused me. But to hell with styles! Come on down and enjoy this one on the beautiful taproom patio surrounded by a table full of friends.

Speaking of friends, Enki’s mission is to “Make the World a Friendlier Place – Two Beers at a Time”. I really like this phrase. How many times have you heard “doing this” or “doing that” one beer at a time? It’s quite a familiar line. But this statement suggests companionship; having a beer with a friend, whether meeting up with an old friend or making a new friend. This philosophy resonates well with the brewery as it was founded by longtime friends who also made lots of new friends over beers leading up to this moment.

The Brewery

As I mentioned earlier the brewery and taproom were built within a one-hundred year old building, formerly the Victoria Creamery. The generations-old aesthetics were definitely kept intact while constructing the brewery. Located just feet from Steiger Lake and the Lake Minnetonka Regional Bike Trail this place is in an ideal location. Enki brews on a custom built 20-barrel brewhouse built by Metalcraft in Portland, Oregon. There are three fermentation tanks now with room for five more. The cooler, which sits directly behind the taproom, contains three 20-barrel brite tanks for finished beer. These are also used as serving vessels for the tap room. There is room for another three brites when needed. At the brewery you can get growlers to go or pints to stay. The taproom, with its beautiful exposed brick walls is open Thursday and Friday 4-10pm and Saturday noon-10pm.


Off to the side of the taproom there is a game room with oversized Jenga and other games. I imagine this will be the place to hang out when the weather turns cold.  But during the summer months, there is a comfortable, well shaded, outdoor patio complete with arbor and greenery. Get there early though, these tables fill up fast. The brewery also owns all the property curb-to-curb around the building and future plans may include some kind of beirgarten or festival grounds. That definitely piques my interest!

Currently beer is available on draft only at local bars mainly in Victoria and Waconia but there will be more to come. I am looking forward to their upcoming release of Chocolate Porter, available only in the tap room and special events. Perhaps we’ll see it at the Tonka Brew Fest next month!  Also coming up is a tap-takeover at The Gold Nugget in Minnetonka. The author personally recommends this watering hole. They have been dedicated to craft beer, and specifically Minnesota craft beer, since day one. Coming up later this month all taps will be represented by western suburbs breweries. Twenty taps in all from Enki, Lucid, Badger Hill, Excelsior and Bad Weather. I know I’ll be there.

I was definitely impressed with my visit to Enki. Impressed with the brewery and grounds, impressed with the people and impressed with the beer. No longer will Victoria be a speed bump or just on the way somewhere else. I will definitely be making Victoria, and Enki Brewing, a destination… and you should too!

Enki Brewing
7929 Victoria Drive, Victoria, Minnesota
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[googlemaps https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=7929+Victoria+Drive,+Victoria,+Minnesota&sll=10.015404,-84.219165&sspn=0.006741,0.013078&t=h&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=7929+Victoria+Dr,+Victoria,+Carver,+Minnesota+55386&ll=44.865238,-93.658104&spn=0.021292,0.036478&z=14&iwloc=A&output=embed&w=425&h=350]

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Gun Flint Tavern and Brewpub

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It seems like you can’t open the paper or fire up the computer without hearing about another brewery opening. I can imagine for some readers each new brewery gets a little less and less exciting. I’ve even read articles suggesting that the State may be nearing a saturation point. Hogwash! If you look at the breweries per capita of Oregon and Colorado, states with similar “personalities” as Minnesota, they suggest we could support eighty or so more breweries. I’d venture a guess that most craft beer enjoying Minnesotans would love to be compared to Oregon and Colorado. We’re just getting warmed up!

IMG_5963I was in Grand Marais recently and had the chance to sit down with the head brewer of the soon-to-be-opened Gun Flint Tavern and Brewpub. Paul Gecas (“GET chiss” if you’re scoring at home) was kind enough to share with me the history of his family’s little tavern in the north and its brewpub expansion. It’s quite possible that if any of you have ever been to Grand Marais, the Gunflint Trail or any of the State Parks on the upper North Shore that you’ve paid a visit to the Gun Flint Tavern. Since opening in 1998 the Gun Flint Tavern has been focused on craft beer. And, as much as possible, Minnesota craft beer. I remember my first visit in 2009 and I was blown away. Only a few places in the Cities at that time were offering the selection this place had and the GFT was 280 miles away! Paul’s aunt and uncle, Jeff and Susan Gecas, opened the pub with a focus on high quality food, freshly prepared in-house and with a beer menu to complement. And quite honestly, they’ve always had visions of beer freshly prepared in-house as well. Later this year, that vision will become reality.

Paul’s brewing history goes back a long way. His father Greg has been homebrewing for 30 years and for as long as he can remember has been helping dad make beer at home. Paul’s family owns and operates Heston’s Lodge up on the Gunflint Trail. The three hour round trip to Grand Marais eventually led to Paul’s being homeschooled. The curriculum apparently included brewing and fermenting; something we all wish we could say we learned in primary school. While in college at U of M Morris, Paul and a group of buddies would homebrew on a regular basis. Since college he spends his time helping out on the family lodge which includes, of course, brewing. Paul and his father have long been active members of the homebrew club Northern Ale Stars and have been hosting club events at the Lodge for over 20 years. Greg Gecas will take on the roll of assistant brewer assisting his son, so this really is a family run operation. Paul interned at the Thirsty Pagan Brewing in Superior, Wisconsin earlier this year and spent some time shadowing Dale Kleinschmidt at Lake Superior Brewing. Most recently, Paul came down to the Cities and worked with the gang at Lucid Brewing in Minnetonka. These are all efforts to learn as much as he can about the parallels and distinct differences between large and small scale brewing.
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So what can we expect from the brewery? The 5 barrel system was built and used in New Zealand and most recently resided (although never used) in California. The brewery was shipped to Grand Marais and is going to be installed soon. There will be three fermenters and five serving vessels. The tile work is complete and the plumbing roughed in. There will also be a lot of glass in the brewery so you’ll be able to have a good view when visiting. What will be on tap? Well, the Tavern’s clientele drink a lot of hoppy beers so you can expect some of those, “perhaps an IPA, pale ale or EPA” says Paul. You may also find a Brown Ale or similar style on the darker end of the color spectrum. Paul spent a May-term studying abroad in Scotland and spent much of the time seeking out the best ‘real ales’ he could find. His appreciation of this style, he says, may eventually lead to some small batch hand pumped casks at the brewpub. Definitely exciting!

The restaurant’s menu will never be far from Paul’s mind while crafting his beers. The food at Gun Flint Tavern often plays around with new and different ingredients, something he plans on doing as well. They plan on using Lake Superior water for their brewing water. Did I mention Lake Superior is only about forty feet from the front door? And speaking of local sourcing; Paul plans on using local artists for label art and tap handles as well as a local coffee roaster and other companies as much as possible to craft his hometown brews. Something many of us can appreciate.
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Will you be able to get Gun Flint Tavern beer to go? That is the plan. In addition to traditional glass growlers, they are hoping to provide Nalgene or stainless steel growlers perfect for taking into the Boundary Waters. Does 64oz sound like too much beer to carry in your back pack? They have been toying with the idea of refillable 750ml bottles, again maybe Nalgene or stainless. The perfect companion for a thirsty paddler. As of right now there is no official opening date but they are hoping to be open sometime this calendar year. If you find yourself in the area I would highly recommend stopping in, even if the brewery isn’t open yet. And be sure to stop at the many new breweries popping up in Duluth and along Highway 61 on your way.

For more information and to follow the progress please check out their Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/gunflinttavern and blog http://gunflinttavern.wordpress.com/.

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Father’s Day Gift Ideas for Beer Loving Dads

While the weather would have us believe Mother’s Day is near it is actually Father’s Day that is rapidly approaching. As a new first-time father myself, this Father’s Day will be a special one. And if you’re like me, you’ve probably always had a hard time figuring out what to get dear old dad. Well, if the dad in your life is a lover of fine beer here are some options (as well as things to avoid).

Homebrewing Starter Kit

Is the craft beer dad in your life ready to step up to the next level? This can be one of the greatest gifts a guy can receive. Just ask me. I married the girl who bought me one. Just make sure the recipient will actually use it. I once dated a girl who bought one for her dad and fifteen years later it’s still in the box. Here in Minnesota we have a two (for the time being) of the largest homebrewing supply facilities in the country – Midwest Supplies in St Louis Park and Northern Brewer in Minneapolis and St. Paul.  Both are currently running Father’s Day specials.

Books or Magazine subscription

Does dad like beer? Does he like to read? Perhaps a beer book or magazine subscription will make his day. If your dad is already a homebrewer, perhaps a technical book would be appreciated. Consider John Palmer’s ‘How To Brew’ (This book is also available in its entirety online at HowToBrew.com) or ‘Brewing Classic Styles’ by Palmer/Zainasheff. This book is a great guide for competition beers! Almost anything by Randy Mosher is a good choice. On the magazine front Brew Your Own and Zymurgy are both great resources and great reading. Although Zymurgy may require a membership to the American Homebrewers’ Association (gift idea?). If he’s just a connoisseur there are plenty of books and magazines to fit that need as well. I like anything written by Stan Hieronymus. Garrett Oliver’s Brewmaster’s Table is an awesome guide to pairing food with beer. And don’t forget the great coffee table book Land of Amber Waters –The History of Brewing in Minnesota by local author Doug Hoverson. Beer Advocate is a fun magazine and as far as beer porn goes, consider All About Beer the sticky page magazine in the group. So much history and knowledge in that publication. I love the articles by Fred Eckhart!

Mix Six

What beer drinker doesn’t like receiving beer? The mix-six is fun to say but it doesn’t have to be six. Think of his favorite beers, maybe they come in bombers or 750s. Or try a theme. Minnesota beers. Or a mix pack of his favorite style. Be careful here though because unless you know his favorites this could end up being a disappointment. I know, I’ve been there. Many stores carry gift cards for just this reason.

surly mug

Glassware

I love glassware. I like having beer glasses that fit the style. Imperial pint glasses for English style beers, stemmed chalice for Belgians and a beautiful tall curvy wheat-beer glass for hefeweizens. Dad have a favorite brewery? A branded glass may be in order. Most places have gift shops and many have online gift shops. Stay away from shaker pints and I would also avoid those “perfect beer glasses” that are out there. I once received a free four pack of those Sam Adams perfect pints. I sold ‘em at a garage sale because they were clumsy and downright ugly. They are kinda like electric cars – a great idea – but damn if they ain’t ugly.

Brewery tour or taproom visit

Looking to just spend some quality time imbibing with your pops? Sounds like a win-win as it’s a gift that you both can enjoy! With all the tap rooms popping up around town it’s easy to kill a day if not an entire weekend visiting them. Try a NorthEast Minneapolis tour. Or a St. Paul tour. A short road trip will take you to both August Schell and Mankato Brewery – both worth a visit. And in case you haven’t heard, Duluth has one hell of an impressive beer scene. Head up there for a weekend and you can really find some fantastic brews. Be sure to call ahead or check websites for hours or to make a reservation.

Well, those are just some of my suggestions. I hope you found them helpful. I just want to wish all the dads out there a fantastic Father’s Day. Cheers!

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Adventures in Beer Pairing

By Derek Allmendinger

People have been drinking beer with pizza for hundreds of years. It’s a natural combination. Coincidentally, my first taste of beer was in a pizza joint. It was a Pizza Hut in Pipestone, Minnesota, in the late 1980s. I can’t tell you what brand it was, but knowing my dad it was probably PBR. And, hey, it was the 1980s so it all pretty much tasted the same, anyway. Point being, people drink beer with pizza. Fortunately, nowadays, we have much better beer options for pairing with our ‘za.

I had a Saturday to myself recently and decided to hit up one of my favorites, Punch Pizza. Punch has been making fantastic Neapolitan pies for years and has been doing a pretty good job of keeping a nice rotation of local craft beers on tap. Since I live in Eden Prairie, I most often frequent this particular location. It is where I fell in love with Harriet’s West Side, Brau Bros’ Hopsession and other great Minnesota beers. I must disclose that I used to work at this Punch location. I was a part-time dough and toppings guy back in 2009-10.

I recently acquired Garrett Oliver’s book, The Brewmaster’s Table. The book is an amazing reference guide to pairing food with beer and it has gotten me excited to explore the world of pairing. I like to eat and, like many of us, I’m sometimes guilty of wolfing down food so fast that I don’t taste it. It is the same as when I drank beer in college – of course, that beer didn’t have much taste. Since I began exploring the world of craft beer, I’ve stopped to smell the roses, so to speak, and the more aware I am of what I’m drinking, the more I enjoy and appreciate it. I am now starting to do the same with food.

So let’s get to the fun part. I ordered the Margherita pizza, a classic Neapolitan tradition. The only toppings besides the fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce are a few leaves of fresh basil. If I may quote one of my favorite movies, “The beauty of this is its simplicity.” However, simple does not mean boring. The fresh mozzarella has so much flavor. And the sauce doesn’t come from tomato paste, it’s simply crushed San Marzano tomatoes, so elegant and full of vibrant flavors. And the dough, like any good pizza, must also shine and all Punch pizzas deliver on this. I paired this with Day Tripper, an American Pale Ale from Indeed Brewing Company.

Day Tripper from Indeed Brewing Company

What did I think? First of all, the aromas of both were amazing. Fresh-baked bread and basil notes from the pizza and a huge dose of evergreen tree, fruity esters and caramel malt from the beer. What I liked was the way the fresh hops and fresh basil aromas played off each other. It was very inviting. The hoppy flavor in the beer, which also gave off massive Christmas tree scents, favorably contrasted the acidic tomato sauce. The pleasant bitterness of this beer cuts nicely through the cheese. One of the things I really found impressive about this pairing was that the beer really scrubbed the tongue, leaving it ready for the next flavor assault.

Overall, a good pairing with great individual flavors and aromas that married well. I loved the aroma of the beer. I mentioned evergreen and it is probably the most piney I’ve ever smelled. And I mean that in a good way. Cat pee and sweaty gym bag don’t sound very pleasant, either, but if they are shouting at you from your pint glass, it can be a great thing. As long as I don’t belch tree ornaments we’ll be okay. At another visit I would like to pair the Day Tripper with one of the more spicy pizzas like the Vesuvio with hot peppers and spicy salami; or the Bufalina with its flavorful arugula and earthy buffalo mozzarella. If I ordered the Margherita again I might try a more delicate beer like a pilsner or cream ale. Or, if I’m feeling particularly bold, perhaps a smoked beer to complement the charred blisters on the crust of every Punch pizza.

If this got you in the mood for a pie and a pint there are numerous places in the Twin Cities that offer amazing pizza and a good craft beer selection. Any of these spots are sure to get your mouth watering; Pizza Lucé , Black Sheep, Pizza Nea, Pizzaria Lola or any of the seven Punch Pizza locations. Salud!